Hello Everyone!
For some interesting additional history, please look at the comment by Diana on the last post...good research Aunt Diana! So interesting!
If you'd like to see ALL my pictures, here are a few links to my facebook albums:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2330473&l=ed288&id=3431029
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2332178&l=22f28&id=3431029
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2332441&l=68eb5&id=3431029
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2332425&l=08d4c&id=3431029
More to come!
xoxo, Ashley
Friday, January 30, 2009
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Le Marais, Palais Garnier
Yesterday and today, we had excursions to the Marais and Palais Garnier, with our in-house tour guide, Mirec. Yesterday was very interesting because we got to see several of the old "Hotels" of Paris, where they wealthy built huge palaces and residences on the banks of the Seine called the Marais. "Marais" implies swamps or marshlands, and this area of the city once was swampy and undesirable. But it was transformed and built over with grand structures during mainly the 18th/19th centuries. These buildings are beautiful. It is also interesting because now, the area is a largely Jewish and Gay community. We passed through an area that had a large amount of Kosher boulangeries and restaurants, which was cool! There is also a lot of interesting artwork and graffiti tagged on several walls in the neighborhood, which I thought was kind of pretty (the contrast bewtween the old and the new).
Today, we were able to go on a tour of the interior of the Palais Garnier. I wish we could have seen the r
eservoir underneath where the Phantom of the Opera lives, but that wasn't included in our tour. The building is so beautiful, and it is incredible that it was Garnier's first huge project. It is just so opulent and magnificent. The slightly ironic thing
eservoir underneath where the Phantom of the Opera lives, but that wasn't included in our tour. The building is so beautiful, and it is incredible that it was Garnier's first huge project. It is just so opulent and magnificent. The slightly ironic thingabout it is that there are several inscriptions and engravings with Napoleon III's name on them, but before the Opera House was finished, he was exiled from France!
Another interesting thing we learned was that in the time period that the Palais was being built, other opera houses in Europe had a lifespan (statistically) of about 12 years before burning down. This is because before electricity, everything was lit by gas, and in an opera house full of sets, costumes, etc, there is a lot that can go up in flames.
The Palais is absolutely beautiful...I remember going to see Giselle there with my family when I was 16, and I could still vividly remember the ceiling by Chagall when I saw it again today. It is so bright and pretty, and such an extreme contrast from the marble decorating the rest of the Palais. I am so excited to go see a ballet there in March!
Right now, I am at the ACCENT center, waiting to start my third intensive French lesson, and then I will go home to a delicious dinner!
Chez Madame Poidevin
Place des Vosges (in the Marais):
I was going to entitle this post, "My Madame," but then remembered that my mother informed me that this phrase sounds wrong...
I thought I would write a bit about my homestay and where I live! I am in the 15th Arrondisement, a bit south of the Eiffel Tower, and my street, Rue Tiphaine, is right off rue de Commerce, which is covered with shops and boutiques, cafes and brasseries. My apartment building is newer than most in the city, but not necessarily new...which is nice, it gives it an authentic feel on the inside. I think that several children live next door because around bedtime each night I have heard what sounds like five babies screaming. The walls are thin!!
The 17th Arrondisement:
My room is absolutely adorable: it is covered in orange and yellow fabrics, and has black laquer furniture, as well as a melange of art and interesting decorations! It is fairly large, as well, for a room in an apartment in the middle of Paris.
Madame Poidevin is very nice, and she makes fabulous food! She does not speak English, but she is a tutor to children for whom French is a second language, so she is very patient with me when I take a little longer to explain things. I've gotten very good at figuring out certain vocabulary: "What is the opposite of this?" "What is the word, for when you are the opposite of hungry?" for example.
She also is a fantastic cook. The first night, she made me steak and delicious, thinly cut potatoes, and an avocado salad. We had cheese for dessert. No one has ever asked me so casually if I would like cheese. As you can probably guess, I did not hesitate to say "Oui, bien sur!!!" On Monday night we had a delicious salad of beets and apples and hazelnuts, and then chicken with cooked endive. And last night, we had carrot and parsley soup, and rice and le canard...duck! It was delicious. I wonder what is for dinner tonight...?
Somehow, we are able to talk about all sorts of things without awkwardness...I think I am lucky because she is good at listening and guessing what I am saying when I am kind of roundabout in my sentences. But I think my French is a lot more fluid than I thought. It's all up there, it's just a matter of extracting it.
At the same time, however, I am starting to over-think my French a bit more now that I have been here for a week, and so getting out certain sentences has been a bit harder the past couple of days...I think I am more self-conscious, and just mentally exhausted! I haven't slept so well in so long, but after a long day of speaking French, taking intensive French review sessions, and then having two-hour long conversations at dinner time, I am wiped out.
I think that fluency will come, but the hardest part is capturing the nuances of the language, and being really fluid about speaking it. We will see...
rue de Commerce (avec le GAP):
Sunday, January 25, 2009
The Exploration Begins
Yesterday was our first exploration of the actual city of Paris. We all started the day with a two-hour bus ride tour of the entire city, which at first seems cliché, but was an excellent way to become re-oriented with Paris. It reminded me how small the city actually is, which is so nice, because everything is entirely accessible.
We started the bus tour at the Bastille, and then drove all the way down Rue de Rivoli past Musee du Louvre. The street is very busy and lively, and is flanked by the most beautiful old buildings. I had forgotten just how big the Louvre is! I am so excited to spend hours inside as part of my Art History course, and otherwise. We also passed Jardin des Tuileries before heading North.
We then passed Place Vendome, which is a beautiful square surrounded by a circular set of
buildings, where the Paris Ritz is housed. It was interesting because our French tour guide, Mirec, gave us the history of all the places we passed. He mentioned that Louis XIV began to build this Place as a monument of his reign, but couldn’t afford to complete the buildings. He only commissioned the façade to be built, and then sold the spaces behind to the wealthy eschelon who could afford to also build their own homes behind it. I find history like this amazing. The country was so poorly budgeted by Kings like Louis XIV, who loved their opulence, but spent so much on these buildings that they left later generations to suffer. I suppose, however, that I am benefitting now from such beautiful scenery!
We circled around the Palais Garnier, where we are going to see a ballet by a Yugoslavian director in March. I am so excited! It is probably the most beautiful theater I have ever seen, and such a wonderful setting for a ballet.
We finished the first leg of the tour by circling Place de la Madeleine, Place de la Concorde, and the Arc de
Triomphe, and then stopped for a bit at Trocadero to see views of the Eiffel Tower. It is interesting because you only feel like you are in Paris once you see the Tour Eiffel, but it hasn’t really been a symbol of France for all that long…it was only built in the 19th century. But it was exciting nonetheless. We finished the tour then by rounding the Eiffel Tower and passing the Ecole Militaire and Invalides, and then drove all the way down Boulevard St. Germain and across the Pont de Sully to the Bastille again!
After this exciting trip, I felt so much better oriented, and I feel like I can really see everything. I traced the route on a map, and realistically, everything is within walking range.
I went for lunch with a few girls at a Brasserie across from the Gare de Lyon, and then we walked all the way across the river and over to Ile de la Cite down the Seine. It was a very cold day, but it was so beautiful that it didn’t matter. We went into Notre Dame, which was very crowded but so beautiful, and then met up with some other USC students to walk back. We returned through Ile Saint-Louis, which is such a picturesque little place, and then up to Bastille area.
Last night, several of us went to a club in the Bastille area called Le Wax. It was a dance club and very entertaining. It is so funny how the French (and Europeans in general) love using little English words in day-to-day vocabulary and phrases, such as Le Wax, or “Super-cool,” etc. They also played mostly American music, which was fun, but in the future I’ll definitely want to go to more authentic places, and jazz clubs.
This morning, my dorm roommate and I went to a morning mass at the neighborhood church, Saint-Antoine. It was very beautiful, and even the small neighborhood churches are ornate and have beautiful architecture. It was also fun to see all the local people and hear the sermon in Francais (as well as good practice). Although it was a different language, however, it reminded me how much religion is based on symbolism and gesture, because even someone without French proficiency to any degree could have followed along.
In the afternoon, we went to le Marais, which is the Jewish/gay district. I didn’t notice much of either, but it is one of the few places that stays busy on Sundays here,
and a close walk from our dorms. We explored the little shops, and then had a café at L’Etoile Manquant, a great people-watching spot on the Rue Vieille du Temple. On the way back, we passed through Place de Voges, which is an absolutely beautiful square in the 3rd Arrondisement.
Now, I am sitting in my room, about to go downstairs to take a taxi to Madame Poidevin’s. I am so nervous to meet her! I hope she likes me…. I have to practice the following: “Bonjour Madame! Je ne peux pas manger le gluten..donc, la farine de blé ou de l’orge.”
I think I’ve got it. More later on la residence de Madame!
We started the bus tour at the Bastille, and then drove all the way down Rue de Rivoli past Musee du Louvre. The street is very busy and lively, and is flanked by the most beautiful old buildings. I had forgotten just how big the Louvre is! I am so excited to spend hours inside as part of my Art History course, and otherwise. We also passed Jardin des Tuileries before heading North.
We then passed Place Vendome, which is a beautiful square surrounded by a circular set of
buildings, where the Paris Ritz is housed. It was interesting because our French tour guide, Mirec, gave us the history of all the places we passed. He mentioned that Louis XIV began to build this Place as a monument of his reign, but couldn’t afford to complete the buildings. He only commissioned the façade to be built, and then sold the spaces behind to the wealthy eschelon who could afford to also build their own homes behind it. I find history like this amazing. The country was so poorly budgeted by Kings like Louis XIV, who loved their opulence, but spent so much on these buildings that they left later generations to suffer. I suppose, however, that I am benefitting now from such beautiful scenery!We circled around the Palais Garnier, where we are going to see a ballet by a Yugoslavian director in March. I am so excited! It is probably the most beautiful theater I have ever seen, and such a wonderful setting for a ballet.
We finished the first leg of the tour by circling Place de la Madeleine, Place de la Concorde, and the Arc de
Triomphe, and then stopped for a bit at Trocadero to see views of the Eiffel Tower. It is interesting because you only feel like you are in Paris once you see the Tour Eiffel, but it hasn’t really been a symbol of France for all that long…it was only built in the 19th century. But it was exciting nonetheless. We finished the tour then by rounding the Eiffel Tower and passing the Ecole Militaire and Invalides, and then drove all the way down Boulevard St. Germain and across the Pont de Sully to the Bastille again!After this exciting trip, I felt so much better oriented, and I feel like I can really see everything. I traced the route on a map, and realistically, everything is within walking range.
I went for lunch with a few girls at a Brasserie across from the Gare de Lyon, and then we walked all the way across the river and over to Ile de la Cite down the Seine. It was a very cold day, but it was so beautiful that it didn’t matter. We went into Notre Dame, which was very crowded but so beautiful, and then met up with some other USC students to walk back. We returned through Ile Saint-Louis, which is such a picturesque little place, and then up to Bastille area.Last night, several of us went to a club in the Bastille area called Le Wax. It was a dance club and very entertaining. It is so funny how the French (and Europeans in general) love using little English words in day-to-day vocabulary and phrases, such as Le Wax, or “Super-cool,” etc. They also played mostly American music, which was fun, but in the future I’ll definitely want to go to more authentic places, and jazz clubs.
This morning, my dorm roommate and I went to a morning mass at the neighborhood church, Saint-Antoine. It was very beautiful, and even the small neighborhood churches are ornate and have beautiful architecture. It was also fun to see all the local people and hear the sermon in Francais (as well as good practice). Although it was a different language, however, it reminded me how much religion is based on symbolism and gesture, because even someone without French proficiency to any degree could have followed along.
In the afternoon, we went to le Marais, which is the Jewish/gay district. I didn’t notice much of either, but it is one of the few places that stays busy on Sundays here,
and a close walk from our dorms. We explored the little shops, and then had a café at L’Etoile Manquant, a great people-watching spot on the Rue Vieille du Temple. On the way back, we passed through Place de Voges, which is an absolutely beautiful square in the 3rd Arrondisement.Now, I am sitting in my room, about to go downstairs to take a taxi to Madame Poidevin’s. I am so nervous to meet her! I hope she likes me…. I have to practice the following: “Bonjour Madame! Je ne peux pas manger le gluten..donc, la farine de blé ou de l’orge.”
I think I’ve got it. More later on la residence de Madame!
Saturday, January 24, 2009
Les Premiers Jours...
The past few days here have been a whirlwind of activity, and I feel as if I have been in Paris for a week, when it has only been about two days. Yesterday was our first day of Orientation, and we met the staff at the ACCENT center, the facility that organizes and manages our specific 
program. Everyone is so friendly, and the staff really has made an effort to get to know us in a short time. We had an overview for a couple of hours, then got to explore the neighborhood a bit at lunchtime.
The ACCENT center, where three of my four courses will be, is in the Bastille neighborhood, in the 12th Arrondisement of Paris. Literally a few short blocks down the street is the Place de la Bastille, where there is a gorgeous monument honoring the place where the Bastille prison stood before the start of the Revolution. There is also a highly controversial, recently built opera house there, the second in Paris. It’s modern façade makes it stand out from its surroundings (thus the controversy among Parisians at the time of its construction), but I think that the new and the old aesthetics blend beautifully in the Place de la Bastille.
The surrounding neighborhood is quite nice, and it was good to
explore a bit during the day. We stopped into a small boutique for a bit and spoke with the owner of the store, who explained to us that the Obama shirts she was selling were purchased before the election even took place because, as she put it, “We all knew he would win.” It was interesting to hear her standpoint, and also encouraging to see how excited everyone is. Everywhere in the city there are posters that say: “Les Challenges: Peut-il réussir?” (Challenges: Can he Succeed?) It is amazing to me how there is the same amount of media coverage here as at home!
Yesterday afternoon, we learned where we would be living, and with whom. My host family is actually a single woman, a certain “Madame Poidevin”… Very French name! She lives in the 15th Arrondisement, south of the Seine, and literally less than a mile walk to the Eiffel Tower! The area is pretty quiet, and I think it will be a nice place to go home to. I meet Madame tomorrow, and I must admit I am very nervous. So far speaking French to various people hasn’t been an issue, but I am a little shy about it, and I will only be living with one person so I have to keep up more conversation. But I am also relieved that I am living with only Madame in a way, because it will be less of an adjustment, and I will definitely improve in my French. We get to have breakfast together every day, and dinner four nights a week. The French culture is very structured, it seems, in that everyone always has dinner together.
Speaking of which, last night we had a fabulous dinner at a
small restaurant off the Place de la Bastille. All of the students on the program ate with the staff, and had a prix fixe three-course meal. The servers were very accommodating about my gluten allergy, and that was a relief…so far, it hasn’t been too bad walking past all the boulangeries, and I must say, I am glad I can’t eat bread, because I would be about three dress sizes bigger in May.
program. Everyone is so friendly, and the staff really has made an effort to get to know us in a short time. We had an overview for a couple of hours, then got to explore the neighborhood a bit at lunchtime.The ACCENT center, where three of my four courses will be, is in the Bastille neighborhood, in the 12th Arrondisement of Paris. Literally a few short blocks down the street is the Place de la Bastille, where there is a gorgeous monument honoring the place where the Bastille prison stood before the start of the Revolution. There is also a highly controversial, recently built opera house there, the second in Paris. It’s modern façade makes it stand out from its surroundings (thus the controversy among Parisians at the time of its construction), but I think that the new and the old aesthetics blend beautifully in the Place de la Bastille.
The surrounding neighborhood is quite nice, and it was good to
explore a bit during the day. We stopped into a small boutique for a bit and spoke with the owner of the store, who explained to us that the Obama shirts she was selling were purchased before the election even took place because, as she put it, “We all knew he would win.” It was interesting to hear her standpoint, and also encouraging to see how excited everyone is. Everywhere in the city there are posters that say: “Les Challenges: Peut-il réussir?” (Challenges: Can he Succeed?) It is amazing to me how there is the same amount of media coverage here as at home!Yesterday afternoon, we learned where we would be living, and with whom. My host family is actually a single woman, a certain “Madame Poidevin”… Very French name! She lives in the 15th Arrondisement, south of the Seine, and literally less than a mile walk to the Eiffel Tower! The area is pretty quiet, and I think it will be a nice place to go home to. I meet Madame tomorrow, and I must admit I am very nervous. So far speaking French to various people hasn’t been an issue, but I am a little shy about it, and I will only be living with one person so I have to keep up more conversation. But I am also relieved that I am living with only Madame in a way, because it will be less of an adjustment, and I will definitely improve in my French. We get to have breakfast together every day, and dinner four nights a week. The French culture is very structured, it seems, in that everyone always has dinner together.
Speaking of which, last night we had a fabulous dinner at a
small restaurant off the Place de la Bastille. All of the students on the program ate with the staff, and had a prix fixe three-course meal. The servers were very accommodating about my gluten allergy, and that was a relief…so far, it hasn’t been too bad walking past all the boulangeries, and I must say, I am glad I can’t eat bread, because I would be about three dress sizes bigger in May.THE NIGHT-LIFE
After dinner, a few of us ended up going over to a place some French locals had recommended,
Chez George, on Rue des Canettes in the St. Germain area on Left-Bank. At first, it reminded me almost of a French 9-0, but that impression faded quickly, as we wandered downstairs…
The basement had low tables all over, and it was a CAVE!! The walls were stone and the ceilings low—it was really cool! Kind of a wine-cellar/monastery-gone-wrong ambiance. In the side room, the DJ was spinning polka and techno-salsa music, which was hilarious. We attempted to dance but it was difficult not to get creepily bumped by the many European men around us. They were funny and clearly having a good time, but incredibly forward…very different from American boys!
A good first day and night in Paris!
After dinner, a few of us ended up going over to a place some French locals had recommended,
Chez George, on Rue des Canettes in the St. Germain area on Left-Bank. At first, it reminded me almost of a French 9-0, but that impression faded quickly, as we wandered downstairs…The basement had low tables all over, and it was a CAVE!! The walls were stone and the ceilings low—it was really cool! Kind of a wine-cellar/monastery-gone-wrong ambiance. In the side room, the DJ was spinning polka and techno-salsa music, which was hilarious. We attempted to dance but it was difficult not to get creepily bumped by the many European men around us. They were funny and clearly having a good time, but incredibly forward…very different from American boys!
A good first day and night in Paris!
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Arrived in Paris
I’m finally here! The flight went smoothly and the gentleman sitting next to me was a friendly little French guy who was nice but didn’t talk much. I was glad, because I was actually able to sleep on the plane! Although I didn’t get as much sleep as I would have liked to in a normal night, I did enough so that I am not very disoriented or jet-lagged. I also got to watch Vicky Christina Barcelona, the newest Woody Allen film that I have wanted to see…it was fantastic, and really inspiring right before a long trip to Europe!
I arrived at Charles de Gaulle at 11 am this morning, and arrived in Paris by about 1:30. Paris today is moderate...kind of gloomy, kind of rainy, not too cold but certainly not warm...Everyone on my shuttle and in the program seems excited and nervous, but it is nice to know that we're all in the same boat and are nervous about the same things.
Now, after having taken a shower (which was difficult as the shower’s dimensions are approx. 1.5 feet squared), I am going to take a quick nap and then our group is meeting up this evening for a short walk around the neighborhood. The dormitory that we are staying in until we meet our host-families on Sunday is in the 12th Arrondisement, and the ACCENT center where I will be taking some classes is a short walk away, in the 11th. Who knows where I will be living! Hopefully somewhere fairly central, although I know it will be in one of the 20 arrondisements (within the official city limits).
I hope I will have better luck with the technical aspects of the next few days…I had to get help opening my door because there was a problem with the lock... The elevator wasn’t working and I had to carry my suitcases up to the 7th floor (which is the equivalent of the 8th floor in America—in France, the first floor is our second floor)! My triceps will be bulging tomorrow!
But I am happy to have arrived safely and to not be very tired. The next few days will be busy…
More to come!
Some views from my dormitory window:
Wednesday, January 21, 2009
La Nuit Avant...
So, it's my last night at home before I depart tomorrow pour la France! And, I am up too late packing the last odds and ends, as was expected. I think I am finally ready. Mentally, perhaps I am not completely prepared for what is in store for me when I land (in terms of language comprehension, French attitudes, etc); however, I am excited and ready to learn, which I think is the most important thing!
Things I am nervous about:
-Meeting my French family...will they like me? Will I have my own bathroom? Will they understand what "Gluten Allergy" means?
-The language: although I've taken French for ten years now, I have never had the opportunity to really converse with native French-speakers; I am nervous that at first I will be a bit daunted.
-Contracting Fromage-Overload [def. - noun: a sickness plaguing the cheese-obsessed when faced with over 300 varieties of delectable cheeses; resembles lactose intolerance]
Things I am SO SO excited for:
-Taking long strolls in beautifully landscaped parks...
-Observing the differences between French and American daily life
-Perfecting my skills in the language
-Applying what I've learned in the classroom (International Relations and French classes) to real situations, people, and places
-Exploring the old and the new, the art and life, and the food, culture and music of France!
Let me know if you have any suggestions for me...Things I should do, places I should go, people I should meet, restaurants I should eat at...please COMMENT!!! I want this blog to be INTERACTIVE!!
Xoxo, and A Bientot...
I will write soon with details of ma vie en France!!
-Ashley
Things I am nervous about:
-Meeting my French family...will they like me? Will I have my own bathroom? Will they understand what "Gluten Allergy" means?
-The language: although I've taken French for ten years now, I have never had the opportunity to really converse with native French-speakers; I am nervous that at first I will be a bit daunted.
-Contracting Fromage-Overload [def. - noun: a sickness plaguing the cheese-obsessed when faced with over 300 varieties of delectable cheeses; resembles lactose intolerance]
Things I am SO SO excited for:
-Taking long strolls in beautifully landscaped parks...
-Observing the differences between French and American daily life
-Perfecting my skills in the language
-Applying what I've learned in the classroom (International Relations and French classes) to real situations, people, and places
-Exploring the old and the new, the art and life, and the food, culture and music of France!
Let me know if you have any suggestions for me...Things I should do, places I should go, people I should meet, restaurants I should eat at...please COMMENT!!! I want this blog to be INTERACTIVE!!
Xoxo, and A Bientot...
I will write soon with details of ma vie en France!!
-Ashley
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