Thursday, February 26, 2009
Firenze!
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
Playing in the Country
More to come next Monday or Tuesday...I'm off to Florence for the weekend tomorrow!
xx Bisous,
Ashley
My Weekend in the Country
It was an incredible weekend, straight out of a Conde Nast Magazine French Countryside Special. It didn’t hurt that we were there on Valentine’s Day, so the picturesque experience fit the weekend perfectly!
The funny thing that wasn't mentioned about the house until we got there, however, is that it isn't a house....it's a chateau!
On Friday night, I went over to Morgan’s family’s apartment and had dinner, and then we all drove about an hour and a half north to a town called Boran-sur-Oise, where their family chateau is located. It originally was built for a courtesan’s/noble’s mistress, and was passed on through the family for a couple centuries. Uncle Christian (one of the many family members there this weekend) joked that his in-laws are descended from a sinner! Over the years the building has also been a working farm, a barracks for German soldiers, etc, but now it is simply a home for the extended family.
The view from our window
Morgan and I were showed into a lovely room on the second floor, which was covered on all walls by portraits and paintings of Napoleon (they’ve probably been there since the 19th century…). The next morning when we woke up, we realized that our windows looked out on either side of the house, to the front driveway and lawn, and to the back field. The property was immense!
We started the day with a breakfast in the “servant’s” kitchen, and then took a lovely stroll through the fields and then the horse pasture. We were in need of a good boot cleaning afterwards! There were so many beautiful horses out in the field, and I believe the family owns two of them that their daughter rides. We then threw sticks to the three dogs that were there for a long time…One of the dogs, Doushka, is a five month old puppy who is indefatigueable…she could have kept playing fetch for hours!
We all had lunch, and then Morgan and I set out for a 3 hour bike ride through the countryside! We were aiming to find a Chateau in Chantilly (I forget the name), and ended up finding another one, which had been converted into a hotel. Only in France do you get lost in the countryside and come across the wrong castle!
We biked around for a really long time, probably about 15 miles, and made it home just before dusk. We had a lovely dinner with Morgan’s family and extended family, and then all gathered in the huge living room (which has a mish mash of antique furniture, and 20 foot ceilings) to watch “Borcalino & Co,” a movie from the 1940s about the French gangs in Marseilles. It was very entertaining!
The next day, we slept in, had breakfast, and then took another walk around the property and played with the dogs some more. They made me a little homesick, because they reminded me of my Ebony back home L We also found a very old pond and well, but the layer of water on top of the pond was completely iced over! We spent literally half an hour taking pieces of the “ice-glass” and making a make-shift sculpture out of it. I felt like a little girl again, when Avery and I used to play in the yard like that.
After lunch, and a short afternoon nap in an armchair, we drove home with Morgan’s host-sister’s aunt and uncle, who live down the street from them in Paris. It was a wonderful weekend, and I am so well-rested! Morgan’s host-father implied that we should come back in the spring time, so I hope I get to…it was such a relaxing break from being in the city! And so gorgeous and green.
Monday, February 16, 2009
Versailles dans la Neige
We took the train out to Versailles from right in Paris, which was relatively cheap (only 6 Euro roundtrip), and took only about half an hour, if even. The walk through the town to the Palace is short, but the town is very cute. I think it has been about five years since I last visited Versailles with my family, and it is an entirely different experience in this weather, from what I remember.
The Palace, as most are probably aware, was built by Louis the XIV to be as opulent as possible, with thousands of different varieties of marbles, stones, metals, fabrics, gold, etc.
The entire interior is swathed in the richest materials, and is quite magnificent, and also suffocating in a sense.
I defintely prefer the gardens (I am my mother's daughter, of course), as they leave a bit more room to breathe, and are extensive and beautifully landscaped.
However, because of the Art History class I have been taking, it was very interesting to have a bit more context into the concept of historical and portrait painting from around the 18th to 19th centuries, when the interior of the Palace was decorated (for the most part). There are so many huge works of art in Versailles that have so much historical (and physical) value it is difficult to fathom.
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
A Technical Side Note
Petit et Grand Palais
Today I had quite the museum experience...I was able to visit both le Petit et le Grand Palais!
At 10 am we had our Art History class at Petit Palais, to look at some Courbet paintings we had discussed in class on Monday. The Petit and Grand Palais was built in 1900 for the World Fair (not the same one for which the Eiffel Tower was built--that was about a decade earlier), and were turned into exhibition halls and city-owned museums. They are quite beautiful buildings, and constructed in the Baroque style that was very popular at the time. There is lots of glass, and therefore lots of light that shows off all the artwork beautifully
I walked home after class, across the Seine and through the 7th (I'm becoming quite used to the walk past the Eiffel Tower now, I hardly look up anymore!), and did some work at home (and some exercises...I'm trying to ward off the cheese-induced-fat). Then this afternoon, I walked back to the Grand Palais, which is right across the street from the Petit Palais. There is an amazing exhibit there that ends tomorrow called, "Six Milliard D'Autres," or, "Six Billion Others." It is a video montage exhibition by Yann Arthus-Bertrand and the GoodPlanet association, in which 5,000 people from all areas of the world were interviewed the same series of questions.
In the building there were several tents with themes such as Fears, Friendship, War, Women, Love, Childhood Memories, etc. In each tent was a viewing area with a screen that had a series of people talking about one specific subject. It was really incredible and gave so much perspective. I think the entire exhibit was the most amazing, eye-opening idea that I have ever heard of, and I hope the exhibit moves to the United States!
I only had time to see two of the video montages, those about Fear and Childhood Memories. It was so interesting because the fears of people in war-torn or impoverished countries are so different than those of people in the United States or Europe. For example, a woman in Uganda fears every day that the genocide will begin again, and a man in South Africa fears that he will get AIDS and not be able to take care of his family; a man in New York city said that his greatest fear is "to not be able to have kids...or, to not be successful." It really put into perspective the vast differences between the lives of people all over.
The Childhood Memories tent was a lot more uplifting, and focused more on the funnier anectdotes of the young child. One cute story was of a man from Canada, whose father was fighting in the Vietnam war when he was born. Every night until he was two, his mother told him to kiss a photo of his father and she'd say "Kiss Papa!" So, when the boy was two and finally met his father, he was very confused and didn't recognize him, as the father's hair had gone completely white, unlike the man in the photo's hair. So his childhood memory was of thinking for a long time that his father was the actual photograph, until one day his parents tricked him into kissing his real papa by putting the photo up to his face, and then taking it away quickly! Funny little stories like those were frequent, but there were also some interesting stories from people in provincial areas, such as the Hunan region of China, whose only childhood memories are coming home from school and tending to the animals, etc.
I'm really glad I made it to the exhibit before it closes tomorrow; in fact, I might try to squeeze in some time between classes to see it again, because I really feel like I did not see enough. I really hope it moves on to other venues.
If you want to see more information, click on the following link, then click again on the picture that comes up, and then on "English" on the next page that pops up!
http://www.6billionothers.org/index_en.php
Really worth checking out!
Sunday, February 8, 2009
Friday afternoon was one of the most beautiful days I’ve ever seen! Perhaps I also appreciate blue skies and perfect fluffy white clouds now, as it has been fairly gray since we arrived. We had an orientation meeting about travelling at ACCENT, and then a few of us went to Montmartre to visit Sacre Coeur since it was such a beautiful day. From the top of the towers (over 300 stairs up, might I add!) was the most miraculous and piercing blue sky, with an incredible 360 degree view of all of Paris. We spent quite a while up there, taking photos and listening to traces of music wafting up from Montmartre. After we descended, we went in search of the music we had heard, and found an adorable Italian guy playing guitar on the steps in front of the cathedral. When we sat down to watch, he asked where we were from, and after telling him California, he played us “Hotel California”! The sun was shining so brightly, and we even took off our jackets because it was warm enough…That was the happiest moment I’ve had here so far.
We continued to walk around Montmartre, and then took the Metro to Montparnasse, where we had coffee and hot chocolate at one of the older and most famous cafes, La Rotonde. It had very classic French decor. After
photo of the moon because it was so full and enshrined by clouds, and because “C’est la meme lune dans tous les pays” … I think you can figure out the translation of that one. And then he insisted that we fit “the moon and the building and all the passers-by in the same frame,” etcetera. It was an interesting night, concluded with a nice bag of frites from one of the Latin-Quarter Greek restaurants!
Thursday, February 5, 2009
Chez Poidevin
<---This one's for you, Mommy!!
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
Whoever Invented Nutella is a Rich Man
"It's Coming"....But whatever does that mean?!?
A note to Heidi...I know exactly what film you're talking about - "Paris, je t'aime"! The same producers are in the process of developping "New York, I love you," which you will have to see as well!
This week, I started my classes. I have an Art History Class (Impressionism), a French class about the Avante-Garde in literature and Art in 19th/20th centuries, an International Relations course entitled Islam in France, and a grammar course at the Sorbonne. I started everything but my Sorbonne class this week (I'm still waiting to see what my placement/class is at Sorbonne and we start next tuesday). On Monday I have one lecture for two hours in Art History, and on Wednesdays, we go as a class in two groups to visit a museum and view the pieces we've been discussing. On Tuesdays and Thursdays, I have the Avante Garde class and IR. So far, all my classes seem very interesting, but I must admit, I already have a lot of reading to do and I am having a little bit of a mental struggle in terms of adjusting my mind to do actual homework. My break from school has lasted about six and a half weeks, so I'm a little out of practice...
Today, we went to the Louvre to see the Neoclassical and Romantic pieces we had discussed on Monday in class. I visited from 9:30 to 11:00, and we get to have student Art History cards that will admit us into the Louvre for free!! It was so much more interesting to go and have an instructor explaining all the pieces than to just go and browse...it was beautiful!
I'm not sure how many times I have visited the Louvre, but how could it possibly get old? While I am here, I plan to go once a week if possible...there is so much to see there. In an hour and a half today, we only went through two small galleries, and looked at about 12 pieces!
Afterwards, I tried to study outside in Tuilleries for a while but I only lasted half an hour - it was so cold! It was just me and some cute little seagulls, but then when I didn't feed them they left, and I was all alone, so I decided to walk a little to warm up. I ended up walking all the way home, through the 7e Arrondisement, and it was really nice. The sun isn't shining today, but there is a kind of mysterious gloom that has descended on the city, and which gives it a pretty lighting.
On Wednesdays, school children either get out of school early or don't have class, so there were a lot of little kids running around! I also got to see the open air market that is on Rue de Grenelle, where I live, and it was very busy... there are so many produce, cheese, fish, poultry, shoes and clothing stands!
Right now, after a snack of rice cakes, banana and nutella, I am about to finish my reading for tomorrow. It is much more pleasant to do inside a heated room! After, I might meet up with some people to walk around more before dinner, or perhaps will go to see Volt tonight (the French version of the animated film, Bolt, sans Miley Cyrus' voice). We shall see!
This Restaurant, Traiteur Asiatique, is exactly what it says it is...an Asian Traitor! It was delicious, but killed my stomach. But the experience going in was nice on a cold, frigid day!
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Chez Père-Lachaise
On Sunday I visited Père-Lachaise, after a delicious brunch at the nearby Mere-Lachaise, a very French verison of Rick and Ann’s. (I had Tartare de Boeuf for breakfast!)
Père-Lachaise is a very famous cemetery, which was originally just a hill upon which the confessor of Louis XIV lived. The need for better cemeteries in Paris in the 18th Century led to the removal of bodies from certain central Arrondisements to Père-Lachaise when it was opened in 1804, and to the creation of the underground Catacombs (based off Roman models). For a more extensive and very interesting history of Père-Lachaise, go to this link: http://northstargallery.com/pages/perehist.htm.
To make a long story short, Père-Lachaise has become a status-symbol of the dead in the past 200 years …to be buried there is to be among the great writers, poets, and bards such as Moliere, Oscar Wilde, and even Jim Morrison. The cemetery is filled with mystery and melancholy, but didn’t creep me out at all, the way some cemeteries tend to…
We visited this massive cite, and it was quite something. I believe it is about 17 acres, and there are thousands and thousands of beautiful and worn out, large and decrepit, mossy and gleaming tombstones. It is quite a mix. The photography opportunities were amazing…check out my links on the right to see a full facebook photo album from Père-Lachaise (The album titles are different when you actually get to the facebook page, but the titles to the right are the actual descriptions of what is in each album)!
It was a cold, windy day…perfect for a visit to the Cemetery! My friend Maddie
(back in California) went skiing this weekend; I amused myself with a graveyard visit! It’s amazing what one finds to do here for fun on the weekend…the possibilities are endless.
But really, in all seriousness, the next time you find yourself in Paris, definitely visit Père-Lachaise in the 20th Arrondisement…it is so beautiful, and so interesting to see. I’m definitely going to go back before I leave! I didn’t get to say hello to Jim Morrison, which I will definitely need to do before departing, to thank him for his contributions to American music, and maybe ask for his autograph on my Doors Anthology Album. Kidding.
Well, Madame must be cooking something delicious for dinner, because I can smell it wafting into my room and that smell is DIVINE. Oh, and by the way, I must have done well at dinner last night because Madame said that her sisters found me adorable. Yay Me!!
A bientot!
Les Promenades
A few days ago, there was a Metro Strike, or Grève, and we didn’t have school! A few of us decided that even though there was no public transportation, we wouldn’t be stopped! So, we ended up walking about 15 kilometers that day, walking to the Tuilleries Gardens, the Louvre, Rue du Rivoli, and back to our respective houses. I was so glad we did this because it was the first truly BEAUTIFUL day in Paris…the sun was shining, there was barely a cloud in the sky, it wasn’t too cold…it was perfect.
On my walk, I passed through Champs du Mars and past L’Ecole Militaire, the Tour Eiffel, and Invalides. I met Morgan and Kate at Concorde, and we walked together to the Palais Royale, where we had a little lunch. Then we walked around the area, and went to the Louvre, to see the basic must-sees (aka La Jaconde). It was exciting because ACCENT center gave us “Art History Student” cards, which is only half-true since we have only one Art-History class, but it got us into the museum free! It was also interesting because perhaps this was there before, but now, the Winged Victory statue is mounted on the original stone helm of the ship that it was on in Greece…It is so beautiful! I love the Louvre…it is so majestic and gorgeous; if I had been Louis XIV, I would have stayed put! (Then maybe there would have been a lot less debt from the creation of Versailles and a lot of other future problems would have been averted….who knows!)
Anyways, we then walked all the way back after some lovely cafés, and by the time we arrived home, we had walked several miles! Of course, Madame had prepared a lovely meal for me and I ate to my heart’s content, knowing I had probably burned off about five meals that day. I love this city…
Monday, February 2, 2009
J'ai mangé trop!
Does the kitty come with the chair??